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Sourcing Journal - Shein’s Latest Scandal in France - 06/11/2025

Shein’s Latest Scandal in France, Explained Sourcing Journal

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The e-tail Goliath was already facing a hailstorm of criticism before all of this took place. The childlike sex dolls that were found for sale on its website have intensified the outrage. In a pointed escalation of its clampdown on Shein, the French government has suspended the delivery of every online order that the e-tail Goliath has dispatched to the country over the past 24 hours, leaving customs and consumer protection officials to wade through some 200,000 packages in search of prohibited merchandise, including illegal weapons and the “childlike” sex dolls whose discovery prompted the initial torrent of outrage. So far, this operation has revealed that eight out of every 10 products shipped by Shein don’t comply with regulations, the Directorate General for Competition, Consumer Affairs and Fraud Control, or DGCCRF, said in a statement. They include unauthorized cosmetics, dangerous toys and faulty household appliances. The move arrived just a day after France’s economic ministry, under orders by Prime Minister Sébastien Lecornu, initiated the suspension of Shein’s website “for the time necessary for the platform to demonstrate to the public authorities that all of its content is finally in compliance with our laws and regulations.” It also said that it would issue ministers with a “first progress report” within the next 48 hours. Shein, which was in the midst of opening its first permanent store in Paris, said that the Chinese-founded company had already made a decision independently of the government to freeze listings from third-party vendors on its French marketplace to allow a “comprehensive review to ensure full adherence to French law and the highest standards of consumer protection.” It is also “seeking dialogue” with local authorities and government bodies “on this issue.” “Our priority is customer safety and marketplace integrity,” said Quentin Ruffat, Shein’s head of public affairs in France. “This suspension enables us to strengthen accountability and ensure every product meets our standards and legal obligations.” The furor began over the weekend after the DGCCRF reported the Singapore-headquartered firm for selling “sex dolls with a childlike appearance” on its platform. According to French law, the dissemination of representations of a pedopornographic nature via an electronic communications network is punishable by sentences of up to seven years imprisonment and a fine of 100,000 euros, or $115,500. The agency said in a statement that the online descriptions of the dolls “make it difficult to doubt the child pornography nature of the content” and that it had “referred the matter to the public prosecutor.” One three-foot-tall doll, made to resemble a young girl wearing braids and clutching a teddy bear, was described as having an “erotic body” and “realistic” genitalia. While Shein is still best known for pumping out eye-watering amounts of ultra-cheap clothing, under conditions that can only be described as opaque at best, it expanded into a third-party marketplace model in the vein of Amazon in 2023 to meet what it said was increasing demand for diversified products and quicker fulfillment times. The company said that the offending items were “immediately removed from the platform as soon as we became aware of these major shortcomings.” Paris prosecutors have also initiated probes into three other platforms: AliExpress, Temu and Wish. AliExpress, where similar dolls were found despite policies against them, said that it removed the listings when it was informed that it “works hard to ensure continued compliance across our platform.” Temu clarified that it’s being investigated only for the distribution of pornographic content without effective filtering measures for minors, not the sale of childlike sex dolls, which are “strictly prohibited on our platform.” Wish did not respond to a request for comment. While Shein said that, if asked, it was prepared to share the names of those who bought the dolls with the authorities, the controversy has only cemented the view that Chinese marketplaces remain the “Wild West of e-commerce,” meaning places where there is “very little compliance and a whole host of issues,” said Neil Saunders, managing director of GlobalData Retail, a market analytics firm. This could have investors running scared, which in turn could damage revenue and profit, he wrote on LinkedIn. “From a customer point of view, there’s a general level of tolerance with fakes, dupes and merchandise of questionable quality,” Saunders said “Most people accept that goes with the territory of Chinese marketplaces. But selling illegal dolls with childlike characteristics breaches a moral boundary and damages Shein’s reputation.” ‘Most unbridled consumption’ Shein was already facing a hailstorm of criticism before all of this took place. Its setting up shop in BHV Marais has angered other occupants in the 19th-century department store, including Agnès Troublé, founder of the French family-owned brand Agnès B, who said she would close her concession when her contract ended in January because she was “completely against this fast fashion,” she told French radio. BHV director Karl-Stéphane Cottendin has tried to minimize the departure of some 12 brands from its stable of “more than 2,000,” telling BFM-TV on Monday that “everyone is free to make their own decisions; we have no problem at all with that.” Following the controversy, he defended BHV’s partnership with Shein. “Shein isn’t a pedopornographic brand,” Cottendin told BFM-TV. “They themselves don’t stand by selling this product. They’re removing it, they apologized, they’re taking all necessary action, they’re investigating, so we’re not going to ban Shein from our store because of this.” For Anne Hidalgo, mayor of Paris, however, Shein, as fashion’s biggest polluter, has “no place in Paris.” Writing on LinkedIn this week, she condemned “in the strongest possible terms” Shein’s sale of the “child pornography sex dolls” and blamed BHV for “transforming this emblematic place into a temple of the most unbridled overconsumption.” “Shein’s model is in total contradiction with the ecological, solidarity and ethical policy that we are pursuing in Paris,” she said. “Ten years after the Paris Agreement, and as COP30 opens in Belém, where cities are on the frontline, erecting Shein’s destructive model as a reference is a major danger for the planet.” French ministers haven’t been more welcoming. In addition to passing a law that would impose advertising bans and “eco-fees” on fast fashion retailers, they’re currently mulling the introduction of a 2-euro or $2.30 tax on low-value parcels shipped from non-EU countries. Both are seen as taking direct aim at Shein, which was once valued at a vaunted $100 billion but has since seen its valuation decline in the face of mounting regulatory scrutiny that has thwarted not just one but two IPOs due to red flags over forced labor, which Shein has repeatedly denied. Its cachet further fell when the United States closed a controversial de minimis “loophole” that allowed its low-value packages to waltz through customs tax- and mostly scrutiny-free, which legislators from both sides of the aisle, in a rare display of agreement, said gave Shein an unfair advantage while heightening the risks of supply chain exploitation. The Trump administration’s bruising “reciprocal” tariffs on China, where most of the e-commerce juggernaut’s goods are made, haven’t helped. France’s data-protection and antitrust regulators, too, have dinged the retailer with the equivalent of $220 million in fines this year for everything from deceptive discounting tactics to failing to disclose the presence of synthetic microfibers to placing some cookies without the consent of website visitors. In neighboring Italy, the Competition Authority fined Shein more than $1 million after concluding that its website was trying to “convey an image of production and commercial sustainability of its garments through generic, vague, confusing and/or misleading environmental claims.” As its backlash grows, Shein could have a continent-sized problem on its hands. On Wednesday, Roland Lescure, France’s economy minister, and Anne Le Hénanff, its digital minister, wrote to Henna Virkkunen, the European Commission’s executive vice-president for tech sovereignty, urging an investigation into Shein “without delay.” “France alerts the European Commission and all member states to these serious breaches within its borders, and expects there are similar risks associated with this platform’s activities in other European Union countries,” they wrote. Shein, which boasts 45 million European users, is beholden to an EU law designed to create safer digital spaces that protect the fundamental rights of internet users, the ministers said. Failing to comply with DSA rules could result in Shein’s permanent suspension, along with a fine of up to 6 percent of its annual profits. “The repeated marketing of illegal content shows that the platform has failed to comply with its obligations under the Digital Services Act, particularly in terms of protecting minors, combating illegal content and ensuring the traceability of its sellers,” they added. Stéphanie Yon-Courtin, a French MEP who has rallied 40 of her colleagues to co-sign a letter of their own to the European Commission, said that Shein, Temu and AliExpress, as very large online platforms, or VLOPs, under the DSA, are “subject to reinforced due diligence obligations, including the identification and mitigation of systemic risks related to the dissemination of illegal content and products.” “Has the Commission launched, or does it intend to launch an investigation under the DSA following the sale of these ‘childlike sex dolls’ and the dissemination of illegal content by the platforms under investigation?” she asked. “The European Commission has the power to restrict or suspend access to the EU market. Is the Commission prepared to make full use of this power to protect children and public health?” Virkkunen said in a post on X on Thursday that she has met with French officials and that they will “continue working for a safer online space,” although she didn’t say how. “We all agree: illegal content has no place online. And online harm has no borders,” she said. “This is why the DSA is crucial in protecting all users across the EU.” In front of the BHV, where Shein opened its first permanent store, activists hold placards with the messages "Shame on Shein" "Planet in danger," and "BHV sells dreams made in misery," in Paris, France, on November 5, 2025. (Henrique Campos / Hans Lucas/AFP via Getty Images)